December 23, 2010

Silver Black. Perfect for oxidizing metal!

It's here! In stock now... Silver Black. We love how it creates a permanent, black patina on sterling silver. There are, however some important shipping and safety issues that need to be addressed before we even get to how the patina looks on the metal.

Let's discuss those first.

Shipping:
  • The price of this product INCLUDES shipping and the $25 Hazardous Shipping charge that is required by law to ship hazardous products.
  • We can only ship in the contiguous US. No Alaska, Hawaii or International shipments.
  • This product will be packed and shipped separately form the rest of your order. It may be purchased with other items in the same transaction, but will be shipped on its own via Fed Ex Ground.
  • This product only ships on Wednesdays.

Safety:
  • A Materials Data Safety sheet will be shipped with this product. You can also download one here.
  •  Silver Black is a solution of 25% Hydrochloric Acid and 75% Water.  Avoid any contact with skin or eyes.  Always wear rubber gloves and safety glasses when using this product.
  • Keep away from children and pets.
  • Use in a well ventilated area and dispose of all application materials after use.
  • If there is contact with your skin, flush with soap and water.  A bath of baking soda and water can be used to neutralize the acid.
  • If taken internally or in eyes, contact your local poison control immediately. 
 
 Storage:
 
  • Store in a ventilated area with other hazardous materials. 
  • Keep cap screwed on tightly when not in use.
  • Do not store near metals (such as tools). Metal that is in close proximity to a bottle of Silver Black will become corroded.



Now let's chat about how great it works on your metal!


Silver Black chemically oxidizes the surface of certain metals. We tried it out on a few of the metal blanks from the online shop.
The metals from left to right are: sterling silver, copper, nickel silver, gold fill, yellow brass, and antiqued brass. 

The Silver Black was applied to each blank with a cotton swab. The blanks were rinsed and dried thoroughly and the top of each blank was polished with a Pro Polish pad

 Remember to work in a well-ventilated area and protect your work surface. We suggest working on a disposable paper plate. Rinse your piece thoroughly after blackening.  We like to rinse first in baking soda and water to neutralize the acid (about 3 Tbsp soda to 1 cup water), then under running water. Dry the piece completely before tackling it with a Pro Polish pad. Water makes the pads sticky and will leave a film on the metal.

Notice in the picture above that the Silver Black does not darken the surface of the gold fill at all, but affects the metal underneath where it has been stamped. That's because the metal beneath gold fill is usually brass and the Silver Black works great on brass metal. It does affect blanks that are plated or antiqued, as shown on the antique brass blank.

This is probably the time to mention that oxidation with Silver Black must be removed through abrasion. That means buffing with a Pro Polish Pad or fine steel wool. If you throw a Silver Blackened blank in the tumbler, the oxidation will remain on the blank. The metal will stay nice and dark. It will be polished from the burnishing action of the tumbler, but the color will remain dark. 



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